Monday, June 30, 2008
Grownup Tastes
That was it.
But I ate the rotwurst anyway. I had no other choice. It had been sitting in my cupboard for some time now. It was pawned off to me a while back and in light of the fact only a week remains for me here in Latvia, naturally I am disinclined to buy more food than is necessary and so, the can was opened.
It wasn't until later in the afternoon that I became curious enough to actually know what else, besides liver, rotwurst contained. I looked it up. That was when the real awakening of the day occurred.
You see, I erroneously assumed that rotwurst was liverwurst. What I was eating was not liver at all. It was blood.
Yes, unbeknownst to me, rotwurst is German blood sausage.
I just know that 10 years ago (or maybe even 5) there would have been no way on earth I would have eaten such a thing. Firstly, I didn't even have a clue what rotwurst was. Secondly, even (and especially) if its contents had been known, there would have been no chance in hell that I would have ever opened the can.
It's funny how these things change as you grow up. Some like to use the phrase "refined tastes," or say that "your tastebuds have matured" to characterize it. But I'd like to think the opposite. Could it be that in fact our tastebuds are not becoming increasingly refined, but degenerating with age as things naturally repugnant such as chilled blood puree become palatable?
Instead of questioning why little Jimmy won't eat his peas it would be better if we questioned why Daddy Warbucks is sucking down raw oyster. I mean, when did eating uncooked fish eggs and snails ever become sane?
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Rah! Rah! U-S-A!
Oh wait, it is not Independence Day. Nor is it July 4th. It is the 28th of June. But today is the day that Americans in Latvia celebrated the 4th of July.
July 4th is the yearly Latvian Commemoration Day of Victims of Genocide Against Jewish People. It was on this day that a large number of Latvian Jews were hounded up by their Nazi occupiers, locked inside one of their synagogues, and burnt alive as the building went up in flames. In order to be sensitive to this somber day of remembrance, the U.S. Embassy in Latvia throws an annual Independence Day celebration on the Saturday prior to July 4th.
The celebration warmly resembled that of an American picnic. It was held at a nice park. There were booths set up, each offering different food and drinks. There were inflatable bouncy house toys and face painting for the kids. American tunes were also blaring from a speaker system.
It was a fun time. Funny enough though, it just didn't quite feel like the 4th. Here's why:
A) Today was not the 4th of July. There is just something distinctive in the air - like a tasteless, odorless gas - on July 4th that we all breathe the second we wake up. Somehow, there is a noticeably different feeling to the day; you know what I'm talking about. Not being July 4th, that 4th of July feeling was absent.
B) Today was overcast. I cannot ever recall a 4th of July in my life that was not sunny and clear. Being cloudy, it just didn't feel like the 4th.
C) I was a minority at my own Independence Day celebration. Although there must have been 300-400 people at the party, I was not surrounded by Americans talking about the baseball season or the elections like I expected, but Latvians speaking their unintelligible (to me) language. I would guess that 95% of everyone there was not American, but Latvian who also happened to have American citizenship.
D) There was no root beer or ice cream. Celebrating the American summer-time celebration without root beer or ice cream (preferably homemade) is equivalent to an Oktoberfest without beer: it just doesn't happen.
E) I was still alone. Normally the 4th is a time that families and friends get together to barbecue and to play. It was just me and my camera.
And finally, did I mention that today was the 28th of June?
But it was still fun. I was proud to be an American, even if it was on a cloudy 28th of June, without any root beer, and all by myself. I wandered around, eating, drinking Coke (it was either that or Kvass, which is absolutely gross), and trying to meet the few people who were actually from the States.
Today's best moment occurred as I was standing in line for a piece of pizza. Without any pre-meditation or thought, I instinctively began singing along to the Cougar fight song. After singing a line or two, I realized what it was that I was singing and thought, "wait a minute...?" I stopped singing and listened. Lo and behold, the Cougar fight song, with its very American marching band feel, somehow made it onto the music playlist (not the words of course, just the tune). I quietly, but proudly, sang along (I even pumped my arm discreetly in the "rah-rah-rah" fashion at the end; I couldn't help it).
So on this 28th of June, I wish a grand hurrah for my two alma maters: BYU and America!
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Summer Camp
After a four-day weekend (and arguably my wildest, most incidental weekend in Latvia), I returned this morning to my desk with these feelings. Even though this week would only be a three-day work week, it was still somewhat depressing.
And a three-day work week is nowhere near as good as a one-day work week. So when I found out that I would only be working a one-day work week this week, I nearly fell out of my chair with excitement.
ONLY ONE DAY THIS WEEK??? Yes, one day. Life is good.
I had forgotten that tomorrow and Friday will be spent "working" at a youth summer camp out near the small coastal town of Ventspils. It is there that Transparency International-Latvia (the non-governmental organization that I work for - for those who are still unaware) holds a yearly a summer camp to promote anti-corruption awareness in Latvian youth.
That is exactly what every kid dreams of doing for a week each summer. "Hey Mom, when do I get to go to summer camp this year? I can't wait to learn about the latest Corruptions Perception Index and its implications for next year's TI agenda while roasting marshmallows!"
For some reason, I think catching fish and throwing cans of lighter fluid into fires were a bit more enthralling. But hey, apparently this thing works and they have a good turnout each year. And I'm not complaining or judging; because of it, I'll get free transportation to a part of Latvia I've been wanting to see for awhile, and free lodging and meals while I'm there. Plus I will not be working, but "working."
So learn on youth! Transparency International's new Guide to Countering Bribery for Small and Medium Sized Businesses awaits you!
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Ligo!
Aside from being Bree's birthday, today is the traditional summer solstice. I would like to also wish everyone a very warm and enlightened Midsummer!
In the US, not much attention is given to the pagan holiday of the summer solstice. I know it is celebrated in some parts of the country on a small or local scale, but I'd say our Puritan forefathers made a rather commendable effort in forgetting to pack along the pagan traditions when they got on the boats. It's a shame really; Midsummer is great time.
For clarification of the holiday, my best friend Wikipedia notes, "Midsummer refers to specific European celebrations that accompany the actual solstice, or that take place on the 24th of June and the preceding evening. European midsummer-related holidays, traditions, and celebrations are pre-Christian in origin and have been superficially Christianized as celebrations of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist as "Saint John's Eve" festivals. They are particularly important in Northern Europe - Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Latvia, Lithuania, Norway and Sweden."
In fact, in Latvia, Midsummer is such a big deal that both the 23rd and 24th of June are national holidays and EVERYTHING shuts down. So I've had a nice 4 day weekend (well...yesterday and today were nice. Friday night...not so much). And last night, celebrating Midsummer's Eve was pretty much the coolest thing I've experienced thus far in Latvia.
Ligo, as it is called here in Latvia, is wild. Everyone heads out to the countryside for one long hoorah-rah of eating, drinking, and folk traditions. Zane, a good friend from the branch, was kind enough to invite me along to celebrate with her family. It was great. I got to celebrate a quintessential Latvian tradition and Zane, being the only member of the Church in her family, had someone to not be drunk with. Win-win!
Like any celebration or festival, Ligo has a dress code. Everyone wears crowns made of flowers and leaves. The women wear a crown made of flowers, symbolizing beauty, while men wear crowns made of oak leaves (apparently the oak is the symbol of power).
The family all decked out. Check out her dad. Is that awesome or what!
Zane and me. Seriously, you can not tell me that that is not the coolest thing you've ever seen.
Around our little fire, wearing our crowns made of floral and foliage, we ate delicious shashli (meat specially marinated for 2 weeks), janis (special cheese only eaten on this occasion), sang Latvian folk songs (well, they did, I listened), and jumped over the fire for good luck (or something... No one is really sure why this precarious tradition is followed, but like any good tradition, it just is).
And now that I have been officially paganized, there is no other option but to forsake my Hebrew name of Joshua. So, henceforth I shall be known by the name of Jost, the Tree-Lover.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Moments that Define
With only 2 weeks and 2 days remaining, I am now on the home stretch of my Latvian experience and ready to leave. Don't get me wrong, it's been great. And even despite the many times I've gotten on a wrong bus and ended up at the end of the line, completely lost; or gotten off on the wrong train stop in an unmarked area without signs or any indication of where I was at, my Latvian days have passed without any major incident. Until now.
I was walking home late Friday night. I was about 2 blocks away from my apartment building when I heard someone shouting something in Russian from behind. I paid no attention and continued my walk home.
When the shouting persisted, getting closer and closer, I crossed over to the other side of the street in an attempt to avoid any possible confrontation. It was when the shouter followed me across the street that I knew it was I who was the target of his repeated rantings.
It was in Russian and I had no idea what this guy was saying. Naturally, I kept ignoring him and picked up the pace. He followed suit, eventually catching up. He began physically trying to get me to stop. With each time I brushed or shrugged him off, he got increasingly physical.
This Russian, in his late 20s, was about my height. But he was far stockier than I. The thought of getting physical with him crossed my mind but I opted to remain passively ignorant of his attempts to bring me to a halt. He was undoubtedly drunk enough as to impair his judgment but still sober enough to capably inflict a considerable amount of damage if push came to shove. The last thing I wanted was to aggravate the drunken brute.
I was half a block away from my building. I only needed to get to the door, punch in the door code, and get inside. I broke into a full sprint. I reached the door and began punching in the 4 digit code: 7 - 8 - 9 - Suddenly, before punching in fourth and last digit, I was grabbed by my shirt and hurled backwards into the street. When I turned around I felt a heavy fist land square on my nose.
He punched me! What the?! I couldn't believe it! He just clocked me in the face! I had never been hit in the face! I didn't know what to do without further aggravating him so I was left to grapple with him in hopes of keeping his arms down and unable to strike again.
The struggled continued and a second blow landed on the side of my head. During it all I heard the sound of a few people running towards us. Two men, who were originally with my assailant before we ran off, and even larger than him, came right at us full speed. Before I knew it, I had been grabbed by the throat by one of them and was being held against the side of the building.
I have never before felt true fear, the fear that accompanies a situation in which uncertainty in the face of a potentially dangerous and life-threatening circumstance is the biggest factor. In this instance I had no CLUE what was happening or what would happen. Do they want money? Do they want to kidnap me? Are they just looking for a way to vent their drunken anger? I really had no idea. At that moment, whatever the reason, I completely and entirely expected to be beaten very, VERY badly.
I cannot express in words how nerve racking those few seconds were as I was pinned, by my throat, to the side of a building.
To my complete and utter astonishment, the guy holding me began punching numbers on the door code panel. The lock clicked. With a thick, stern Russian accent I heard, "Here you go. Have good night."
WHAT?!?
I immediately extended my hand and the most heartfelt thank-you that has ever left my lips was given.
The door shut. I was completely out of breath. The night watchmen - a man of around 70 years - just stood there wide-eyed. He had seen the entire ordeal. Right before I was thrown backwards into the street and decked in the face, I had slammed my fist loudly on the door a couple times hoping to get help from this watchman. He had run over to the door, but the door never opened.
I stood there with the watchman just staring at me, with my hands on my knees, catching my breath, and trying to figure out what had just happened. Shouts from the street continued as my assailant was now fighting with his two friends. With a bloody nose and a ripped shirt I quietly walked up the stairs to my room. I was emotionally and mentally shaken up more than I had ever been in my life.
The next day, as I went out and about getting a few things done, I felt completely indifferent to the world around me. My usual optimism was gone. I didn't look at anyone. I didn't attempt to smile or acknowledge anyone as I passed them. I had this eerie feeling - completely devoid of trust - towards anyone and everyone around me.
We've all heard the American Indian adage that goes something to the tune of "Never judge a man before walking a hundred miles in his moccasins." I never could understand why people in Riga (and big metropolitan areas in general) were so cold and impersonable.
Now I know.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
The Best Compliment Ever
When she saw this picture of Ben and I performing at last year's critically acclaimed and enjoyed-by-all Mountain Wood-Stock festival, her exact words were, "you look like George Harrison's son!"
Words cannot express how much my tired body and groggy mind perked up when she said that.
Now, I don't want to brag or anything; it was she who said it, not me. But let's analyze this. If her claim is true - that I look like George Harrison's son, who is the spitting image of his father(seriously, he is...), who happens to be my favorite member of the all-time greatest group of musicians and cultural icons of the 20th century - then logically...........I look like George Harrison which automatically makes me freaking AWESOME!!!
Thank you Betsy for making my day!
You know, the world could use a few more Betsies out there.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
One wrong turn...
Today, even though I had to wake up earlier than usual, I wasn't grumpy.
I had to catch a morning train headed to a small town outside of Riga. I caught the train and rode the train. I even got off at the correct stop (in my experience that is ALWAYS a bonus). I looked down at my previously highlighted and marked-out route on a map of the area, oriented myself, and began walking.
I was on my way to a business appointment as part of the project I'm working on. The majority of the offices I visit are in the center of the city and within walking distance from our office. A few have been scattered throughout the periphery, like today's office for example. These appointments cause for the greatest amount of excitement.
I began walking down the very street my pre-planning skills had determined would be the best way for my legs to go. I knew I was headed in the right direction, I just had no idea where I was. I kept hearing the traffic from a distant freeway and I was definitely nearing it. Before I knew it, I was at the freeway with nowhere to go.
The only problem was that I almost died when a semi-truck making a u-turn nearly collided with a car right in front of me. It was way too close for comfort. I had to dodge out of the way. But I am fine. Like a hobo in a boxcar, I sing my traveling songs and go merrily on my way, even if it means walking along the side of a freeway.
Monday, June 16, 2008
A Life of Learning
Latvians are on to something.
Besides Andrew, I didn't think anyone actually used those little pockets. That's why the lady pulling out a phone was so incredible.
The knowledge that each day I can see something as novel and fascinating as someone actually using those obscure little pockets for utilitarian purposes is what gets me out of bed each morning. It reassures me that new knowledge is everywhere just waiting for me to uncover it, and if I don't get out of bed, I might blow an opportunity. Thank goodness for these little sparks of life.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
What I Learned Today in Church
Secondly, as if I were sitting at the dinner table with my family - the typical Sunday afternoon interrogation ensuing - here is what I learned today in Church:
In a small town, some 40 kilometers south of Riga, behind a dilapidated row of storage units, sits the immigrant detention center where Michael and Robert have been held for the past 10 months (See Michael & Robert, May 25). In this detention center there is a room with a table, a few chairs, and a picture of the Virgin on one of the walls - it is the "religious room." It was here where I and one of the elders who taught and baptized the two of them held Sacrament meeting this morning.
We chatted and visited for a while, asking how they were, if there was any news on their release, what they had been reading in the scriptures, and so on. They seemed to be doing well enough and expressed continued gratitude for the peace and comfort they feel since receiving the gift of the Holy Ghost. They also mentioned how two Cubans had just barely been picked up and were now interred there with them. I told them I spoke Spanish, upon which Michael immediately ran out and brought Felipe and Rolando into the room.
Felipe and Rolando are in exactly the same position as Michael and Robert - they got on a ship and mysteriously found themselves in Latvia (only instead of trying to get to England like Michael and Robert, they were headed for what they thought was Spain). When they walked in and I greeted them in Spanish, their faces lit up like a child's on Christmas morning. It felt very warming to brighten up their day. The poor guys are completely in the dark when it comes to communicating with anybody here - they don't even speak English.
After chatting with the Cubans for a while, they left and we proceeded with our little service. We knelt together and Robert said the opening prayer. We then read the 6th chapter of Moroni and discussed the importance behind meeting together as a church. Special attention was given to the Sacrament, after which, the four of us knelt again as Elder Hobbs and I blessed the bread and water. As we partook of the emblems together, there was a deep feeling of humility and reverence.
Sometimes, it takes moments like these to be reminded of the sanctity and power of the simple, often times overlooked ordinance that is the Sacrament. With an enormous amount of respect and reverence, Michael and Robert partook of the emblems in remembrance of our Savior Jesus Christ. With equal respect, I watched them. In that moment, I witnessed what it means to truly have a broken heart and a contrite spirit. It was a very, and I mean very, humbling experience.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
The Forgotten Amendment
The building presently holds the national science academy and you can pay a few bucks to go up to the observation deck on top. After doing a little research, I discovered that this building is not one-of-a-kind. It is identical to many others just like it in other cities of the old Soviet Republics. They were given as gifts to the republics by Stalin himself.
I'm sorry, but this building is so hideous that giving it as a gift would be like taking a piece of dog poo, putting it in a box, wrapping it up, and giving it to your girlfriend for her birthday. "...ummm, thanks Joe...you really shouldn't have..."
It's no wonder nobody outside the Kremlin liked Stalin - he gave out poo as presents.
Thank goodness for freedom of good architecture. That's one of those constitutional rights that we probably never even care to consider. I didn't even know it existed until I came over here and saw with my own eyes this tall piece of poo jutting into the sky. I mean, just look at this thing!
Friday, June 13, 2008
Deep Questions
Even with this question in mind, the more deeply rooted theological controversy would lie in questioning why Latvians haven't created screens - maybe only God knows the answer but there aren't any screens in the windows here. I don't know why nor do I really care. All I know is that I like fresh air so I keep the window of my room open pretty much the entire day. This leads to issues.
At night, when the lights go off and I am comfortably in my bed, content, and happily drifting off to dreamland suddenly, that most aggravating little high pitched whine approaches my ear. QUICK! I spring to my senses! The lights go on! I throw off the sheets and I'm standing on the bed! The hunt for the little ba$#@*d begins.
I create a sting. I turn the lights back off and turn on my flashlight hoping to attract him and then crush him in his stupidity. I wait. I wait some more. I wait some more. My attention span is reaching its limits. Where the H is this guy? I wait some more. It is really late and I am very tired. This is gay.
I lie back down. Suddenly, he returns! My arms fling out wildly in the air hoping to somehow do something, somehow, to the mosquito! He is gone. I lie back down perplexed. This is definitely not the normal mosquito. He taunts me. He mocks me. What I am to do?
I have now exhausted my energies and slowly slumber away. In my head I hear the distant hum of those little wings. My senses awaken. Is he coming back? I lie still and quiet - nothing. The eyelids grow heavy and my eyes fall back. Quiet.
Almost unnoticeably, the hum in my head grows louder, the pitch increases. He's back! I hear him get closer! Closer! CLOSER! Wait for it...wait for it. HE LANDS ON THE TIP OF MY EAR! HE IS STILL! WHACK!!! Did I get him? I GOT HIM! HE'S DEAD! HE'S DEAD! I HAVE KILLED HIM!
Oouuwww. My ear is ringing. It hurts. It hurts bad. I think I just blew out my eardrum?! Oouuwww.
What is with these mosquitos? You wouldn't expect there to be any in this frigid Northern environment where it just barely got considerably warm enough not to have to wear a jacket. But no, they are here. And every night they create a stir in my room.
I don't know what the deal is. These Latvian mosquitos are definitely different from their American relatives. The light trick doesn't even work. I don't get it!
I suppose, that like everything else I can't comprehend in this country, it just must be one of those Soviet legacies.
D@#* Soviets.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
The Formal Reception Part II
It was thrown in the Latvian National Railroad Museum, a quaint, old railroad station (my dad would have really liked it). It was very similar to last week's event (except this time I had to foresight to put on a coat and tie). Waiters in white shirts and bow-ties greeted us with trays of wine and champagne. The food was obscenely fancy. There was a jazz band playing sweet tunes. The place was packed with dignitaries from all over. It felt like I was in some type of movie. This was definitely a whole different world from the one I've lived in.
It is exciting to attend these things, and having my dinner covered for the night is a definite plus, but at the same time it saddens me. There are hundreds of millions of people in the world literally starving to death and here I am, at this government sponsored gala, eating prime rib and salmon and caviar and three pieces of cake (oh that cake was good).
I know these types of state sponsored events are not foreign to the United States - they happen all the time in Washington. I also know that many Americans oppose a welfare state. Now I'm not entirely sure I'm completely sold on the idea either, but I really don't see how we can justify spending tax money to entertain already wealthy people's tastebuds but not want to provide just a little more support to those who are going to bed hungry or homeless or uninsured.
Governments must level the playing field. Either they must allocate more on welfare or less on themselves and the finer things of "good diplomacy." When a statesman publicly recognizes this need and does something about it - whether he be American or Latvian or Zimbabwean - he will earn my respect.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Who's Got a Pickle?
It just so happens that today I had pickle.
I've never been a big pickle guy. I mean, as much as I love a good game of pickle, sweet pickles are the only pickles I really like. There's really not that much you can do with a sweet pickle, though. I've only ever had them diced up with tuna for a delicious tuna sandwich, or eaten plain - a pickle every now and then just makes a good snack.
Dill pickles are different. I have never, never liked dill pickles. For the most part they are disgusting. You couldn't have paid me to eat a dill pickle as a kid. As my tastebuds have matured - despite the fact that I maybe have not matured so much - I have come not to mind a good, cold, CRUNCHY dill pickle on a hamburger; but that's it, no chewy, soggy, fast food hamburger pickles - yuck.
Pickles are a big deal here in Latvia (I think it goes for Eastern Europe as a whole). They pickle EVERYTHING. I've written about pickled mushrooms. I've mentioned pickled pear. Seriously, they love to pickle. So much that they do pickle pretty much every fruit or vegetable they can from pumpkins to apples.
I noticed a while back that in the supermarkets, they had these bulk bins full of pickles. Instead of candy, like we have in the States, they have bulk pickles. Fresh pickles! How cool is that?
Today I was just feeling that urge to eat a pickle. When I was walking home from work and passed a supermarket, I went in, approached the pickle bins, reached in with the tongs, and got myself a pickle. There were three different types of pickles. I had no idea what would be what so I just got the cheapest of the three hoping it would be a good one. I paid for my pickle and as I left the store I took a bite out of it.
I was hoping it would be sweet and not dill because again, I don't even like dill pickles. I was taking a serious chance here but I thought even if it were dill, it probably wouldn't be too bad because it's fresh and not sick like those gross dill pickle slices that everyone likes - sick. So I took a bite and sure enough...I couldn't tell what it was.
A mild dill, maybe? A not very sweet sweet pickle, perhaps? humph. It's actually pretty tasty, not too bad at all. And so I ate my pickle as I strolled the rest of the way home.
The End.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
The Hunters
Family Home Evenings have included a lesson by Elder Hunter. Sister Hunter, like the wonderful grandmother she is, then feeds us. This is like the greatest woman ever. Her refreshments have ranged from fruit pies and ice cream to German pancakes to garlic bread and vegetable trays. It has been the absolute greatest - on Monday nights, dinner has been covered! That will be missed.
Elder Hunter had a cheap guitar that became my weekly indulgence. I always arrived a little bit before family home evening started, then was the last to leave, just so I could have some guitar time without feeling completely guilty for not being social. Each Monday, I have been able to quietly go back to that special place of mine - music land. In college, excepting my real friends of course, a set of scriptures, my longboard, and my guitar have been my truest friends. As long as I've had them, stress, frustration, rejection - the typical feelings that accompany single student life - have been turned into happy times of reflection. Not having a guitar over here has proven especially difficult but each Monday night, I have been able to go back to my happy place. That will be missed.
Some weeks, up to 25 young single adults have showed up for family home evening; other weeks, not so many. One week, just me and one other showed up. But no matter how many people were there, it was nice simply to have a "home" to go to, even if it was just for 2 hours a week. 2 hours!?, you wonder. Yep, sometimes more. Like I said, everyone just loved being there that much.
I feel most saddened for my Latvian peers. Unlike me, they won't go back home soon to tons of members and strong families in the church. Hopefully, throughout my life, the Hunters' kindness and love won't be forgotten. I am certain, however, that for the young Latvian members, the Hunters will definitely never be forgotten.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Corruption in the Court
I had one such interview last week. A prominent international business owner from Sweden gave me a few eye popping accounts of his dealings in the Latvian business sector. He also rattled off a few subjective insights.
He said that in his experience, the only country more corrupt in the private sector than Latvia is Russia. Anyone who knows anything about Russia knows that, if this is true, it is a big deal. He mentioned how the 3 largest Scandinavian construction companies completely gave up and withdrew from Latvia a number of years ago because their sector was so bogged down by bribery and under-the-table payments that they could never secure a bid.
He said that in his experience, noting the exceptions of the Scandinavian countries, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK, the European Union as a whole is more corrupt than the US. Anyone who knows anything about the US knows that, if this is true, it is a big deal - the US is nowhere near squeaky clean. He mentioned that the governments are so tied into the private sector that self-indulged bureaucrats run the entire economies. Again, he noted, it has been extremely difficult for foreign companies to win fair contracts there.
He related to me an experience that took place here in Latvia 5 years ago. A Latvian friend of his required an operation. The doctor requested an under-the-table "facilitation" payment of 1000Lats ($2220usd) in order to operate. Unable to afford the bribe, this Latvian friend approached the Swede asking to borrow the money. The money was lent and the operation ensued.
After the operation, the Swede and his friend decided to take the doctor to trail for extortion and taking bribes. A trail ensued. During the hearings, however, it was discovered that the courts themselves were guilty of the same crimes as the doctor: 2 judges involved in the case had accepted bribes from the doctor to rule in his favor.
The doctor was found guilty and sentenced accordingly. But still - after 5 years - no ruling has been made against the judges, despite the efforts of this Swedish business owner and others. The courts are simply too bogged down in their own internal corrupt behavior that nothing is being solved or done.
What a sad and disturbing thing to have happen. Can you imagine living in a country where corruption had permeated even the very courts which hold the responsibility of interpreting and upholding the law?
We can only hope things never get this out of control back home. The slope is definitely slippery when dealing with corruption. We must be willingly to do something about it if it does happen.
The biggest problem facing Latvians is apathy - people view corrupt businessmen, politicians, and courts as simply part of "the system" - it's just the way it is.
The fact is: that is not the way it is. In order to keep a democracy running, we cannot afford to ever forget that.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
1 Month to Go and Nothing to Write
Unfortunately, with 2 months already under my belt, if you haven't already picked up on it, I find myself lacking interesting things to tell of. I don't get lost anymore, nothing is quite as novel, most of the big ooo's and ahh's have already been written about, and I am just here, in the swing of things. And on days like today, in which nothing extraordinary or spectacular happens, it leaves me nearly completely void of anything to write about (hence, The Beard Album). My apologies. I simply cannot bring my mind to think of anything concerning me and/or Latvia that is of sufficient importance to write.
So instead, I will mention a New York Times article. Now I know the New York Times is held by some as the "great perpetuator of the left, the flagship of the liberal media." For those who view it as such, fine. But just for the record, I enjoy it.
The following is a recent column I found particularly provocative and wanted to pass along to all 5 (if that) of you who read this waining blog of mine.
In January 1841, Abraham Lincoln seems to have at least vaguely thought of suicide. His friend Joshua Speed found him one day thrashing about in his room. “Lincoln went Crazy,” Speed wrote. “I had to remove razors from his room — take away all Knives and other such dangerous things — it was terrible.”
Lincoln was taking three mercury pills a day, the remedy in those days for people who either suffered from syphilis or feared contracting it. “Lincoln could not eat or sleep,” Daniel Mark Epstein writes in his new book, “The Lincolns.” “He appeared at the statehouse irregularly, hollow-eyed, unshaven, emaciated — an object of pity to his friends and of derision to others.”
Later, Lincoln wrote of that period with shame, saying that he had lost the “gem of my character.” He would withdraw morosely from the world into a sort of catatonic state. Early in his marriage, Epstein writes, “Lincoln had night terrors. He woke in the middle of the night trembling, talking gibberish.”
He would, of course, climb out of it. He would come to terms with his weaknesses, control his passions and achieve what we now call maturity.
The concept of maturity has undergone several mutations over the course of American history. In Lincoln’s day, to achieve maturity was to succeed in the conquest of the self. Human beings were born with sin, infected with dark passions and satanic temptations. The transition to adulthood consisted of achieving mastery over them.
You can read commencement addresses from the 19th and early 20th centuries in which the speakers would talk about the beast within and the need for iron character to subdue it. Schoolhouse readers emphasized self-discipline. The whole character-building model was sin-centric. So the young Lincoln had been encouraged by the culture around him to identify his own flaws — and, in any case, he had no trouble finding them. He knew he was ferociously ambitious and blessed with superior talents — the sort of person who could easily turn into a dictator or monster.
Over the course of his young adulthood, Lincoln built structures around his inner nature. He joined a traditional bourgeois marriage. He called his wife “mother” and lived in a genteel middle-class home. He engaged in feverish bouts of self-improvement, studying Euclid and grammar at all hours. He distrusted passionate politics. In the Lyceum speech that he delivered as a young man, he attacked emotionalism in politics and talked about the need for law, order and cool reason.
This concept of maturity as self-conquest didn’t survive long into the 20th century. Progressive educators emphasized students’ inner goodness and curiosity, not inner depravity. More emphasis was put on individual freedom, authenticity and values clarification. Self-discovery replaced self-mastery as the primary path to maturity, and we got a thousand novels and memoirs about young peoples’ search for identity.
In the last few years, we may be shifting toward another vision of maturity, one that is impatient with boomer narcissism. Young people today put service at the center of young adulthood. A child is served, but maturity means serving others.
And yet, though we’re never going back to the 19th-century, sin-centric character-building model, for breeding leaders, it has its uses. Over the past decades, we’ve seen president after president confident of his own talents but then undone by underappreciated flaws. It’s as if they get elected for their virtues and then get defined in office by the vices — Clinton’s narcissism, Bush’s intellectual insecurity — they’ve never really faced.
It would be nice to have a president who had gone to school on his own failings. It would be comforting to see a president who’d looked into the abyss, or suffered some sort of ordeal that put him on a first-name basis with his own gravest weaknesses, and who had found ways to combat them.
Obviously, it’s not fair to compare anybody to Lincoln, but he does illustrate the repertoire of skills we look for in a leader. The central illusion of modern politics is that if only people as virtuous as “us” had power, then things would be better. Candidates get elected by telling people what they want to hear, leading them by using the sugar of their own fantasies.
Somehow a leader conversant with his own failings wouldn’t be as affected by the moral self-approval that afflicts most political movements. He’d be detached from his most fervid followers and merciful and understanding toward foes. He’d have a sense of his own smallness in the sweep of events. He or she would contravene Lord Acton’s dictum and grow sadder and wiser with more power.
All this suggests a maxim for us voters: Don’t only look to see which candidate has the most talent. Look for the one most emotionally gripped by his own failings.
Written by David BrooksJust something to consider. Re-read the last 4 paragraphs. Mr. Brooks is on to something.
See, you can learn a lot from the New York Times.
Friday, June 6, 2008
The Beard Album
In light of the fact that a it seems like a considerably greater amount of men let their faces go in Eastern Europe, I have begun The Beard Album.
Should I feel bad taking all these pictures without these men knowing? I don't think so. They are probably more than grateful to contribute their folliclical energies to the cause of man. They know, that one day, the razor wielding, iron fist that binds both BYU students and "professionals" alike will, in its own dictatorial fury and paranoia, smash itself to pieces. One day, Fashion and Professionalism, the great worldly goddesses worshiped by both old and young, bond and free, will be humiliated and brought low as Baal. One day, no longer will the Head monkey in Paris be followed,* but men will wear their faces as they are so inclined. Lennon said it best: hair peace.
To these men, whom I have covertly taken photos of, I dedicate The Beard Album. Thank you, guys.
*A reference to Thoreau, who, speaking on following the capriciousness of fashion, said with great satire, "The Head monkey at Paris puts on a traveler's cap, and all the monkeys in America do the same."
Thursday, June 5, 2008
The Formal Reception
Waiters with trays of champagne and wine greeted us at the door. I felt like I was in a movie. There was a jazz trio playing in the corner of the ballroom and tables were piled high with the most obscurely fancy orderves (sp?) and finger foods I have ever seen. Some, like the prime rib kebabs, were absolutely the best thing I’ve eaten in over 2 months. Others, such as the pickled pear with blue-cheese spread on top was not so good. And the caviar-like, raw salmon thing was ok.
The majority of those in attendance were high rollers sitting on millions of dollars worth of Latvian investments. My boss - a good guy, father of 4 in his late 30s - and I felt just a tad out of place without the obscenely priced clothing that everyone else was wearing (heak, I didn’t even have on a tie) but it was fine. We sort of just did our own thing in the corner close to the food.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Not What it Seems
As you can see, totally normal. And here is the view looking down the street. It is right in the center of the city when you'd expect it to be in some far off, obscure area.
And you can't really tell, but this is the side of the building and those windows along the foundation are the windows to the prison cells. During the KGB days, the windows were painted over.
And that is all. Thinking about it now, maybe I should have paid the few extra bucks to take pictures inside? because these shots are lame. Come to think of it, I didn't even ask how much it would be!? hmmmm.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Microwaves
It was then that I received the most cynical response I have ever gotten in my life - and it was deserved. "With FIRE," he sternly told me as he got out a frying pan, threw in the left overs, and turned on the gas burner. Oh.
Yes, I felt very sheepish. It's just that always growing up with a microwave, it had never occurred to me that food could actually be rewarmed by just putting it on the stove.
I am now living in similar circumstances without a microwave (only there is no heavy Guatemalan looking at me like I'm the most ignorant and pathetic dummy that ever walked). Sometimes I pull out the frying pan to heat food up but then I run the risk of charring whatever it is I'm wanting to eat. I've discovered a better way.
By resting a smaller pot full of left overs on the rim of a larger pot full of water, I have fashioned a double-boiler that serves the purpose of a microwave. I know! I'm genius! It works great only instead of a quick, minute-and-thirty second warm up it takes about 10 minutes once the water starts boiling. But hey, it works!
Now, whenever I hear that "Wells Fargo Wagon" song from The Music Man (you know - oh, oh the wells fargo wagon is a...comin' down the street, oh please let it be for me!) it has more meaning for me. In one line, a lady blasts out, "or a...double-boiler!" as her wish for what she wants the Wells Fargo Wagon to bring. Ha! I already have one! And I didn't have to wait for some crummy wagon to get it! Ha, lady!.
Monday, June 2, 2008
Vilnius
My weekend was spent in the capital of Lithuania. Vilnius a seriously cool place - by far the best in the Baltics to visit. It really is a neat place to be. There is just a cool, almost chill, vibe there that doesn't exist in either Tallinn or Riga, it just feels much more European than the other two. This is probably due to the relatively low Russian population in comparison with Latvia and Estonia.
The bus arrived in Vilnius around 3pm Saturday afternoon. I was more than thrilled to be off the bus. There must have been 20 kids around the ages of 10, 11, 12 on that bus. I don't know if there is anything more aggravating than 20 Gameboys or PSPs or whatever all blaring their obnoxious video game sounds all at the same time. I couldn't fall asleep for the entire 5 hour ride. I almost lost my cool. I really wanted to just stand up and yell, "TURN YOUR FREAKING SOUND OFF!" but I didn't. I'm not sure they would have understood me even if I did.
I got to Vilnius, and like I said, it was sweet. I've given up paying entrance fees so I didn't actually go inside much - after awhile, it's all the same anyways. Instead I just wandered around, "parading" if you will. I found my way to a park in which they were having their annual folk festival. What luck! It was the best. I spent a good 2-3 hours just chilling in the park, listening to the Lithuanian folk music and eating good Lithuanian food.
I found my way over to the Vilnius Basilica. Now, I've seen a few churches over here but this was truly impressive. It was enormous and ornate in its classical styling. Unlike Estonia and Latvia, Lithuania (like its neighbor Poland) remained Catholic through the Reformation. Interestingly enough, I have never actually seen a Catholic place of worship even half full for mass; until Sunday morning. This place was packed.
Sunday morning I visited on old KGB facility. This place has been left exactly as the KGB left it in 1991 and has now been turned into a museum. I'm not sure I have been in a more disturbing place. The prison was absolutely horrifying. The "boxes," little 3ft. by 3ft. cement cells, the torture rooms, and the execution chamber were almost too much to see without getting completely depressed and disgusted.
In the "exercise yard," an outdoor but enclosed area of maybe 10ft. by 15ft., I sat down on the single bench that occupied the center of the area and just thought. The people interred there, who were not criminals but simply enemies of a motherland they had never professed allegiance to, were subject to such inhumane treatment. It was horribly depressing. What made it even more realistically unnerving was that most of the museum guides were former inmates.
I strolled through town some more after the prison. It was around 12:30pm when I received a text message from a pair of elders back in Riga in response to my query concerning the time and place of church in Vilnius (all 3 Baltic states comprise one single mission). They told me the address and time of church, which was at 1 o'clock; I had a half an hour to get directions to the chapel and get myself there. After asking a few people where the address was, I realized that only by taking a taxi would I get there in time. I grabbed a cab and made it just as the meeting was beginning. It wasn't until the sacrament was being passed that I actually ran the exchange rate and did the math in my head. Holy crap! I just spent $20usd to get to church. Ah man.
When I am in Heaven and allowed to see the replay of my life, I will definitely ask to see my face in sacrament meeting that moment. Twenty bucks; I couldn't believe it. I sure hope I got 20 bucks worth of the Spirit.
Nah, just kidding. It was worth it. I'll just have to budget that money out of the next two weeks' groceries. What can you do.